The next essay in the collection is even better |
| Ephemera in Full
H.L. Mencken (1880-1956) is a revered figure in the history of American letters, and understandably so. But after enduring the heavy weather of these two Library of American volumes—a gathering of Mencken essays and journalism originally published between 1919 and 1927 in a series of books called "Prejudices"—I am beginning to have my doubts. I remember Tom Wolfe once telling me that Mencken was one of the greatest stylists of the English language, alongside Malcolm Muggeridge, and George Orwell. Again, it is hard to disagree. ugg australia boots But I strongly suggest that Mr. Wolfe purge the "Prejudices" from his library.
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H.L. Mencken at his writing desk in the mid-1940s.
Some of the pieces in the "Prejudices" series—there were six volumes in all—are very good, as I had remembered. In particular, Mencken's essay on William Jennings Bryan, the prairie populist and endless presidential candidate, remains a classic and well worth re-reading. But the vast majority of the pieces in "Prejudices" are tedious and ephemeral, even terrible at times.
Anyone seeking the reasons for Mencken's high reputation would do better by turning to Huntington Cairns's "The American Scene" (1965), an anthology that judiciously selects from Mencken's autobiographical works, his writings on the American language and his various superb efforts at reportage, including his famous account of the 1925 Scopes Trail, in which fundamentalist religion famously butted heads with evolutionary theory.
Cairns, it is true, included some flatulent "Prejudices" essays in his anthology, but with explanations of their origin—either from Mencken or from Cairns himself—along with the dates of the essays' original publication. There are no dates included in the Library of America volumes and no contextual introductions to the pieces offered. Much of the time we have no idea what Mencken is shouting about. He comes off as a gasbag.
The appendix to the first Library of America volume includes a selection from Mencken's posthumous "My Life as Author and Editor" in which he comments on the "Prejudices" series. He tells us, quoting himself, that the first series, published in 1919, was "a stinkpot designed to 'keep the animals perturbed.' " But he confesses that the collection contained "light stuff, chiefly rewritten from the Smart Set," the magazine that Mencken edited with George Jean Nathan from 1914 to 1923. "The real artillery fire," Mencken wrote, "will begin a bit later." Where it did begin it was often off the mark—for instance, not 200,000 soldiers dead in the Civil War, as he says, but 621,000.
Mencken admits that the pieces in "Prejudices: Second Series" (1920) are not original. He was still larding up what he considered important essays with "surplus material left out of the 1922 revision of In Defense of Women" and other writings, including, as he put it, "reworkings of my Smart Set reviews and my contributions to 'Répétition Générale.' "
The "Répétition Général" that Mencken mentions was a running Smart Set feature offering facetious definitions of trends and types and brief editorial comments. true religion nathan To take an example not included in the Library of America volumes: "The Bald-Headed Man: The man with a bald head, however eminent his position, always feels slightly ill at ease in the presence of a man whose dome is still well thatched." Clearly much of the material in the Smart Set was not of great weight.
Mencken continued such rewrites and regurgitations for an additional four "Prejudices." He is at his worst when he writes on what he considers important topics: the South, farmers, the national letters, the American character.
It is always amusing to call a farmer "a prehensile moron." Or to compare a politician to "an honest burglar." But often Mencken simply falls into a gimmick. He strings together absurd similes, preposterous comparisons and long lists, and there is an enormous amount of repetition. After a while, it all becomes tiresome.
H.L. Mencken: Prejudices
[BOOKRV2]
(Library of America, two volumes, $35 each)
In the essay "On Being an American," he writes that a man who has to make a living in the U.S. must keep in mind that "the Republic has never got half enough bond salesmen, quack doctors, ward leaders, phrenologists, Methodist evangelists, circus clowns, magicians, soldiers, farmers, popular song writers, moonshine distillers, forgers of gin labels, mine guards, detectives, spies, snoopers, and agents provocateurs." One gets the point quickly, and yet he goes on an on.
Later, after running a sentence for 17 lines, he ends by referring to "thousands [of Americans] who put the Hon. Warren Gamaliel Harding beside Friedrich Barbarossa and Charlemagne, and hold the Supreme Court to be directly inspired by the Holy Spirit, and belong ardently to every Rotary Club, Ku Klux Klan, and anti-Saloon League, and choke with emotion when the band plays 'The Star-Spangled Banner,' and believe with the faith of little children that one of Our Boys, taken at random, could dispose in a fair fight of ten Englishmen, twenty Germans, thirty Frogs, forty Wops, fifty Japs, or a hundred Bolsheviki." There is a lot of padding here.
In the same essay he says that the American belief in the good life or progress or happy landings or something "is not shared by most reflective foreigners, as anyone may find out by looking into such a book as Ferdinand Kürnberger's 'Der Amerikamünde,' Sholom Asche's 'America,' Ernest von Wolzogen's 'Ein Dichter in Dollarica,' W.L. George's 'Hail, Columbia!', Annalise Schmidt's 'Der Amerikanische Mensch' or Sienkiewicz's 'After Bread,' or by hearkening unto the confidences, if obtainable, of such returned immigrants as Georges Clemenceau, Knut Hamsun, George Santayana, Clemens von Pirquet, John Masefield, and Maxim Gorky and, via the ouija board, Antonin Dvorak, Frank Wedekind and Edwin Klebs." Such strings of slightly ominous names could be seen as part of the "artillery fire" Mencken referred to in his posthumous reflections.
As I say, Mencken was a superb reporter, and when he stuck to reporting he was an original. In "Prejudices: Fifth Series," he was running out of steam, but then comes his incomparable "In Memoriam: W.J.B." It begins: "Has it been duly marked by historians that the late William Jennings Bryan's last secular act on this globe of sin was to catch flies?"
Mencken takes us to the Dayton, Tenn., monkey trial, reporting on Bryan's confrontation with Clarence Darrow, and his eyes are wide open: Bryan "liked people who sweated freely, and were not debauched by the refinements of the toilet." Bryan makes "progress up and down the Main Street of little Dayton, surrounded by gaping primates from the uplands. . . . There stood the man who had been thrice a candidate for the Presidency of the Republic—there he stood in the glare of the world, uttering stuff that a boy of eight would laugh at! The artful Darrow led him on."
The next essay in the collection is even better. In "The Hills of Zion," Mencken actually attends a meeting of locals who speak in tongues and sweat a lot. "The heap of mourners was directly before us. They bounced into us as they cavorted. The smell that they radiated, flooding there in that obscene heat, half- suffocated us. Not all of them, of course, did the thing in the grand manner. Some merely moaned and rolled their eyes." It is all here, even Mencken's speculations of a lewd nature.
Mencken was the first celebrity intellectual. Mass communications was in place, and he was present to take advantage of it. He was a brilliant stylist, and when he stuck to reporting, Tom Wolfe had him right. But not in these pieces, and not in his crank diatribes. He flourished in the first quarter of the century, but I doubt there would be room in America for him now. His prose style aside, he was an independent mind. There are only two camps today, and he would be in neither. |
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Natalia Vodianova poses behind cartoon lettering in Stella |
| Karl Disapproves of New Chanel Film; Natalia Vodianova Returns for Stella McCartney
Despite Karl Lagerfeld’s unfavorable reviews of the new Chanel biopic Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky, the designer had some advice for the film’s star, Anna Mouglalis. She said, billig UGG Schuhe “When I discussed this with Karl he was very keen for me to show Coco's humour but that was something the director didn't want to do. For him nothing can be precise enough. This film is just one interpretation and shows a certain point of view.I didn't even have to ask for his help though — he relayed anecdotes about Coco, showed me the archives and lent me some beautiful dresses."
• Natalia Vodianova poses behind cartoon lettering in Stella McCartney’s new campaign.
• Tamara Mellon on Jimmy Choo’s collaboration with Ugg: “It was really fun to work with them and put the DNA of Jimmy Choo into an Ugg boot. No matter who you are, what your income, everyone has a pair of Uggs. We’re also doing a great advertising campaign with them, showing how to wear Uggs in a Jimmy Choo world.”
• Brands are turning to crowd-sourcing to increase customer loyalty. Bloomingdale’s recently partnered with Keds on a collaboration that allowed customers to design their own shoes, and online retailer Modcloth gives shoppers the opportunity to vote on which samples will go into production.
• Now that Lindsay Lohan is behind bars, “Free Lindsay” T-shirts have been turning up on websites like Amazon, true religion Schuhe Cafe Press, and Customized Girl.
• Geil magazine has been accused of scamming people in the fashion industry.
• Model Jessica White and Sean Penn were seen canoodling at Rose Bar, but Penn's rep says they're not together. |
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Bell-bottoms and boot-cut styles will appear |
| Shed those uncomfortable skinny jeans: Denim's going wide in 2011
Women who hate skinny jeans can rejoice next spring when the extra-tight denim that has dominated the market for more than two years makes way for wide-leg cuts.
Bell-bottoms and boot-cut styles will appear in chain stores this spring. Many apparel watchers predict the eventual demise of the skinny that has spurred both adoration and revulsion.
"The pendulum is swinging away from skinny," said Ryan Dziadul,billig UGG Schuhe a spokesman for VF Corp's 7 For All Mankind. "There are millions of pairs out there. For spring, it's about bell-bottoms."
Wider-leg jeans made an appearance this week at the Magic apparel trade show, the twice-annual Las Vegas pilgrimage where retail buyers place orders for the newest looks.
Jeans makers are looking for something new to entice shoppers who have proven scarce at the checkout line since the recession.
The move comes as jeans as a category will lessen in importance this spring, experts said. Khakis and corduroy pants are expected to steal the focus, said vendors.
True Religion Brand Jeans is increasing the amount of non-denim apparel in its line to between 30 and 40 per cent, true religion Schuhefrom about five per cent last year.
"Denim has slowed down dramatically. She doesn't want to buy more jeans," said Oscar Feldenkreis, president and chief operating officer of Perry Ellis, speaking of the female shopper. "And the jeggings trend has slowed down."
Jeggings, or leggings designed to emulate the tightest jeans, have been popular this past year across a variety of retailers, from high-end to discounter stores.
Despite the trends shifting to a wider look, some retailers are nervous so vendors will continue to make skinny and other styles to offer a range of options, jeans makers said.
"(Retailers) are seeing it in the trend reports, they're very curious, but they're not really booking it heavily yet," said Hala Jbara, director of marketing for Pepe Jeans. "They're more willing to try boot cuts."
That fear of the unknown is also evident in a wealth of recycled styles on display on the trade show floor, where distressed leggings and tops, military-inspired pants and jackets or the ubiquitous graphic T-shirt jockey for attention.
"We're seeing silhouettes we saw last year," said Holly Valdez, co-owner of a Costa Mesa, Calif., boutique. "They're playing it safe, but changing it up a bit."
A graphic T-shirt this spring may have an uneven hem or an army-inspired top might now have ruffles, adding a feminine twist to a harder-edge look. |
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The essentials of college: fashion |
| The essentials of college: fashion
A new chapter in life calls for a new sense of style. It’s time to throw out your high school threads and build a wardrobe fit for a campus cutie.
As a new school year begins, fashion is all about making the transition from summer to fall.
The heat has not quite fizzled and the leaves still call the trees home.
Plain tank tops and tees can transition well from the beach to the classroom by adding a few fall essentials.
Cardigans and vests are well known on the fashion front this fall and provide the perfect compliment to your summer basics.
Adding an open cardigan or vest to your tank or tee instantly transforms into a casual,Ugg Boots Online Shop but stylish statement.
When pairing your layers be sure not to add to the boredom of your lecture hall and pair a plain piece with a patterned piece.
A great way to add to any outfit or wardrobe is to plan according to the season.
Fashion expert’s advice: Over accessorize with bangles of different colors and layer your necklaces. Don’t worry about being "matchy" with your jewelry, have fun with different colors and styles.
Also, let’s face it "Silly Bandz" are not exactly fashion’s best friend. High schools are swarming with arms covered in them and, well, high school is over.
Another way is to add a belt to your skinny jeans. Belts come in many sizes and can be adjusted accordingly incase you fall victim to the "freshman 15."
Just remember one thing: The days of wearing your belt over your shirt are over. Try a skinny belt rather than a thick one and try tucking the front of your shirt in. Skinny belts can be found at retailers such as Forever 21 for under $5.
Ladies, during your first few weeks of classes you will see leggings as pants and Ugg boots in September; do not become a victim or an eyesore for those walking behind you.
Last, but not least, let’s not forget about purchasing some Mountaineer gear to replace your old high school T-shirts from band camp or senior year.
We know you’re proud of graduating high school, but if you want to avoid the freshman red flag, ditch the high school T-shirts.
If looking for traditional Mountaineer gear such as logo T-shirts and hoodies, shop at the Barnes and Noble West Virginia University Bookstore.
Prices here are affordable for college budgets and convenient for purchase while rounding up your books.
Ladies, if looking for a way to put a girly spin on your game day wardrobe, check out the Victoria’s Secret line of WVU gear.
The VS line offers a girl’s spin on school spirit with dresses, flip flops and different styles that are both stylish and spirited.
Guys, if looking for a new spin on your WVU gear, try the vintage style T-shirts or add a hat that can both cover up your bed-head for those bright and early classes or add a little something extra to your school-spirited attire.
Whether you’re headed for a full day of classes or a night out with some friends, be sure to keep it classy and simple and you are sure to impress your classmates and upperclassmen. |
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Ugg’s new boot |
| Stargazing | Chrissie Hynde finds eco-fashion; Anderson Cooper losing his gray?
A fashionista ‘pretender’
If you fashion yourself a rock star, check out what Chrissie Hynde is up to these days. The Pretenders front woman is launching a line of eco-conscious clothing with fellow musician JP Jones.
Fairground Luck was inspired by Chrissie’s friend, vegetarian Emmylou Harris. The clothes were designed with musicians in mind — T-shirts, skinny jeans, cowboy boots and faux leather jackets.
“Like most women, I love fashion and clothes,” says the notoriously reclusive Chrissie, a well-known activist for People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals. “I love handbags and shoes. Everybody will be able to find everything they love in a non-leather version. Fashion should be fun.”
Losing the gray?
We’re among the Anderson Cooper fans who hope he doesn’t take up a $1 million offer to get rid of his gray hair.
The deal: He would have to use the Go Away Gray pill made by Rise-N-Shine for 60 days and report his progress on Twitter and Facebook to make the money.
“We feel like Anderson Cooper is a really visible and well-respected figure and thought he would be a great spokesperson for the product and the company,” says the pill’s developer, Cathy Beggan. “And it doesn’t hurt that he’s a handsome gentleman.”
Yes, but it’s the gray that makes him hot.
Fergie’s pink shoes
Fergie is taking her role as this year’s spokeswoman for Fashion Footwear Association of New York’s Shoes on Sale so seriously that she has designed a shoe for its cancer fundraising gala.
Brown Shoe will donate 1,000 pairs of the shoe, called “Hope,” to the on-air QVC sale in October,billig UGG Schuhe Breast Cancer Awareness Month. A limited number of pairs also will be available at www.FergieShoes.com in October.
Shoes on Sale, which we rarely miss, has sold more than one million pairs of shoes and donated more than $32.5 million in net proceeds to breast cancer research.
Ugg’s new boot
Nicky Hilton ruined the surprise last week when she posted a picture on Twitter of her latest fashion score: a pair of the new Jimmy Choo Ugg boots that won’t be available to us real folks until October.
“Love my new Jimmy Choo Uggs,” Nicky tweeted.
The boot is black, fringed and embellished with stars. Its nickname is Chugg, and it comes in five styles of various colors. The sheepskin boots will be available in limited distribution.
At nearly $1,100, we say, “Ugh.”
Victoria: Too old?
She’s married to hunky David Beckham and has become one of the most recognizable fashionistas on the planet. What more could Victoria Beckham want?
Apparently, the cover of Vogue, the American edition. And it’s just not happening.
Victoria has been on the cover of the magazine’s international edition five times; she’s currently the cover girl for Turkish Vogue. But she has done everything short of begging Vogue editor Anna Wintour to be on the U.S. edition.
Sources say that Anna thinks Victoria is “too tabloid” for the honor, which went to Halle Berry for the vaunted September issue this year.
“She’s dreamt of being on that cover since she was little. Right now she’s on an all-out charm offensive and has been sending Anna flowers and notes for the past few weeks to get noticed,” the source says.
Adds one celebrity stylist: “She’s getting a bit old. Anna loves relevance and youth: Victoria has neither.”
Ouch.
Bisset teams with Avon
Avon Products Inc. has tapped Jacqueline Bisset, 65, to be the face of its new Anew Platinum skin care line for women over 60.
The tag line: “If you think your youth is gone, think again.”
Maybe Victoria Beckham should give up on Vogue and hit up Avon. |
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Jesinta Campbell |
| Aussie Miss Universe 'uggly' cossie controversy
HIGH-heeled ugg boots will make their international catwalk debut as part of Australia's national costume at the Miss Universe final next month.
Jesinta Campbell will fly the Aussie flag wearing woolly booties in the Las Vegas quest on August 23.
Campbell, 18, will wear a unique creation by Sydney designer Natasha Dwyer, who works under the Arthur Ave label, in the pageant's national costume section.
"Isn't it incredible," ugg Campbell said yesterday as she revealed the gown.
Her outfit includes a one-piece swimsuit with a hand-painted design by an indigenous artist, a multi-layered silk skirt, a lambswool shrug and high-heeled ugg boots.
"Part of our Australian identity is our indigenous heritage and it was so important that it was included in the national costume," Campbell said.
"An Aboriginal artist hand-painted my swimsuit, which is the base of the outfit, which is very special.
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"I have a little sheepskin shrug, which I think is very Australian - very Outback.
"We have these gorgeous little high-heeled ugg boots, which I think is a nice little finishing touch. It is something that I am really proud to wear. I feel magnificent in it."
The gown follows a trend of controversial national costumes at Miss Universe.
Neanwhile, the verdict is in and it's anything but pretty. Some of Australia's best designers and fashion commentators have weighed in.
As one succinctly summed it up: "It's wrong, wrong, wrong."
Kaftan designer Camilla Franks said: "There are pros and cons to any outfit but I think this one is more cons. I like the mixture of prints but the high-heel Ugg boots and matching top really brings it down."
Grazia editor-in-chief Alison Veness-McGourty warmed to the "so wrong they're right" Uggs, but not to the ensemble.
"Strewth sheila, enough already!" she said succinctly.
Leading Aussie designer Aurelio Costarella cooed that a national costume is difficult: "Pop her in a pair of bikinis and some zinc."
Lauded couturier Jayson Brundson agreed: "You can draw on the Barrier Reef and the red centre but it is difficult to keep it from falling into kitsch." |
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The annual event hosted by the Whitsunday |
| Meridien Marinas Airlie Beach Race Week preview by Ian Grant
Pride and passion will ride the weather rail when ocean racing sailors from Australia and New Zealand line up to compete for championship honours in the Meridien Marinas Airlie Beach Race Week regatta.
The annual event hosted by the Whitsunday Sailing Club promises to provide another spectacular opening to the 2010 Festival of Sails when the spinnakers are set for the traditional Double Cone-Armit Island passage race on Friday.
Sailors from the colder latitudes will discard their ugg boots and layers of heavy clothing and step out with colourful shirts and shorts when the test their tactical strategy in a sailor friendly warm tropical environment.
As expected the 21st anniversary celebration which has attracted a number of first time entries including Americas Cup sailors to World champions and the local Whitsunday sailor who has the pleasure of enjoying racing in this tropical aquatic paradise will compete for honours in the nine class championships.
For the first time in many years the speed sailing Multihull class return with a promise of challenging the personal honour of winning the fastest times around ‘the track’.
Local boat builder David Chittleborough who has the prestigious honour of building the impressively fast Tony Grainger designed catamaran Cynophobe for best mate Peter Millar has the proven speed potential to win the ‘Cock of Pioneer Bay’ title.
Both owner skipper Peter Millar and sailing master Dave Chittleborough are on a rush of adrenalin when the trampoline becomes drenched in spray as Cynophobe reaches her peak sailing speed.
They will be all out to protect their reputation as the fastest sailing crew and promise to set some super fast course times during the longer island passage races to take a stranglehold of the fastest crew at the regatta.
However while interest will naturally focus on the maiden regatta performance of Cynophobe similar interest will generate around the tactical battle for Grand Prix IRC trophy ,ugg which is sure to be highlighted by the performance New Zealand’s James Farmer skippered Georgia and the defending champion Living Doll skippered by her Victorian owner Michael Hiatt.
Also Ray Roberts who won the 2008 series has returned after winning a number of championships on the recent Asian circuit.
This trio promise to again set the pace while similar interest will surround the racing in the evenly matched Farr 40 one-design class where Mooloolaba Yacht Club ‘Old Salt’ Bob Robertson plans to ‘turn up the heat’ at the helm of Cracklin Rosie when the sails are tensioned for the expected ‘nip-n-tuck’ dog-fight against Bobby’s Girl, Night Nurse and Lambourdini
Veteran Brisbane sailor Howard Lambourne owner skipper of Lambourdini is ‘tight lipped’ about his crew selection however there is a strong rumour that his long time mate the 1968 Mexico Flying Dutchman class Olympian Carl Ryves will play a vital role in the tactical strategy.
However while the even boat speed clash between the Farr 40’s remains open Bob Robertson and his Cracklin Rosie crew believe they are up to the challenge to claim the class clash over Lambourdini , Night Nurse and Bobby’s Girl. |
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Food fears, lamb prices high |
| Food fears, lamb prices high
OVERSEAS food security concerns will ensure high lamb and sheepmeat prices are here to stay, according to prominent exporter and processor Roger Fletcher.
"When people get hungry they get restless," Mr Fletcher told a producer forum at Uardry stud at Hay in NSW last week.
Mr Fletcher, of Fletcher International at Dubbo, said sheepmeat supplies were becoming tighter in Australia and throughout the world.
In his own instance, the Dubbo plant had scaled back its daily kill to 5300 head, 70 per cent of which were lambs.
He said the mix of 50 per cent domestic and 50 export sales was also beneficial.
Mr Fletcher said the prosperity of today's lamb market owed much to reform of the waterfront 12 years ago.
He said that reform effectively doubled the container handling rate to 21 per hour.
"What that meant was that we could vacuum-pack fresh product and ship it to any market in the world within 30 days, while the product still had another 30 days' shelf life," he said.
Mr Fletcher said China was now Australia's fastest-growing market for lamb.
But despite the buoyancy of the market, ugg Mr Fletcher was critical of the imposts placed on Australian processors.
"How many of you producers pay payroll tax?" he asked. "You might think you don't, but you do.
"Every sheep and lamb I kill, $1 a head comes off your returns because of payroll tax."
Mr Fletcher said that because of the tighter lamb supplies it was time the Australian sheep industry reviewed lamb dentition for defining what was and wasn't lamb.
He said he favoured the same rules that applied in New Zealand, where a lamb with an adult tooth that had just cut through was still defined as a lamb.
On the type of sheep Australia should be producing, Mr Fletcher said he wasn't fussed as there was a market for all types.
But he issued a warning not to discount sheepskin values.
He said the lamb and sheepskin market was currently strong due partly to what he described as the ugg-boot market in China.
"When it gets cold in China every wants their uggies," he said.
Mr Fletcher cited a report of how one supermarket sold 1400 pairs of ugg boots in a day. |
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Other luxury brands are striking back |
| Christian Louboutin is just one example of how luxury brands are being forced to react to counterfeiters. The maker of high-end shoes and handbags has "gone to war" on the Internet, listing those sites that sell knock-offs of its $600-and-up shoes in hopes that public shaming will stop some of the bleeding.
Other luxury brands are striking back, too. Versace recently won $20 million in damages in a case involving fake goods.
But the knock-off artists aren't going away. Instead, they're just lowering their sights. The New York Times reports that now, counterfeit brands are on the rise for such items as $295 Kooba bags and $140 Ugg boots instead of $2800 Louis Vuitton handbags.
Counterfeiters are turning to the lower-priced merchandise, says The Times, because they "are easy to sell on the Internet, can be priced higher than obvious fakes, billig UGG Schuhe and avoid the aggressive programs by the big luxury brands to protect their labels."
One of the advantages of selling such goods is that the illicit merchants can "price the counterfeits close to retail prices." Whereas a retail shopper knows that a very expensive luxury item can't be the real thing if it is selling for a ridiculously low price, the more modestly priced items are harder to spot. For example, a $295 Kooba bag might be available from an Internet seller for $190. That price is close enough to make a consumer think it might be the legitimate item -- but it is probably a fake, because the price is too deeply discounted.
It gets even tougher for a manufacturer when illicit websites go so far as to make their sites look like they're real. Leah Evert-Burks, director of brand protection for Deckers, the company that own the Ugg Australia brand, tells The New York Times, "Counterfeit websites go up pretty easily, and counterfeiters will copy our stock photos, the text of our web site, so it will look and feel like" the legitimate site.
Ugg Australia is now engaged in a full enforcement program, according to The Times. In 2009, in fact, customs agents confiscated 60,000 pairs of fake Ugg boots, and that same year, the company went after 2500 websites selling fradulent products, as well as some 170,000 listings on sites such as eBay and Craigslist.
Unfortunately for the real brand names, this only goes to prove -- if you can't sell the real thing, you can always fake it. |
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Fashionistas |
| Out with the old, in with the older
Fashion jewellery has debuted from bohemian chic to sophisticated femininity with fluid lines, voluptuous curves and a touch of precious glamour gracing new designs. GRETEL HUNNERUP reports
A slow but steady revolution is taking place inside the doors of jewellery stores all across Australia. It's the kind of overthrow that will change the face of fashion jewellery we've come to know so well. Loud, chunky and embellished styles are vanishing from the display cabinets, and taking terms such as 'ethnic' and 'gypsy' with them.
Fashionistas who once loved matching lengthy strands of semi-precious stones, giant silver cuffs and dangly crystal earrings with their effortlessly "thrown together" outfits are now trawling the dress-up box for something much different.
Ladies and gentlemen, the bohemian phenomenon that has reined supreme over fashion jewellery for several years is now making way for new kind of style.
Since the beginning of the millennium, fashion jewellery has been heavily influenced by the boho-chic fashion movement. It all started when style pioneers decided to revisit the hippie influences of the 1960s, taking to the streets in flouncy skirts, coin belts, furry vests and cowboy boots. Poster girls for the fashion mode included trendsetting starlets Sienna Miller and Ashley Olsen.
This worldwide phenomenon peaked in 2004-2005 when it flowed into the jewellery world, influencing designers and boosting sales of vintage stock.
But every hot trend has its day and the sun finally set when Sienna Miller announced to Vogue last year,billig UGG Schuhe "No more boho chic! Those two words make me sick now."
It was around this time that changes were afoot in the world of fashion apparel and fashion jewellery began to follow its lead.
A shift as prominent as this presents all kinds of challenges to retailers who have comfortably followed the same trend for a handful of successive seasons now.
But one way to avoid the guessing game is to look forward to Europe, still a crystal ball for future fashion direction here, according to Adriana Corti, director of sterling silver jewellery wholesaler Iron Clay.
"I follow what's on the catwalks in Europe by looking at fashion magazines and designer websites," Corti says. "I then do my designing and buying according to what will be in the clothes shops when the season reaches us six months later."
Corti believes the fashion industry is revisiting 1950s styles that enhance the curves of the woman, citing a wave of short coats, tops with three-quarter sleeves, capes and skinny pants on European catwalks. As such, she predicts that fashion jewellery in classic shapes and sophisticated hues will fare well.
"The biggest trends now are earrings with long chains, cocktail rings and shorter necklace chains with details like pearl balls, flowers and romantic lockets to make the outfits softer," she says. "Greys will be the winter wardrobe staple and jewellery with blacks, purples, navies and plain silver will accentuate.
Nobody wants too much colour in their jewellery now, because the market has been totally flooded with boho. It's a return to elegance, absolutely."
Colour consultant Leslie Harrington from Connecticut company LH Color, shares Corti's predictions, adding that grey-putty neutrals will replace browns and deep, dark orchids and plums will be important.
"The range will be richer and more luxurious, a return to a heritage of luxury," Harrington says.
For some designers, like Mayriel Luke of ARTipelago, the shift is a welcome change as it now gives them a chance to produce more delicate work.
"I've always struggled with boho as my work is finer," Luke says. "I have tried to extend myself to be bolder and chunkier, but it's not really my style. It's time for jewellery to become more refined and specific, and not just loads of long necklaces."
Luke looks to the streets, not the catwalk, to inspire her urbane range of pearl, coloured gem, bead, crystal and wire jewellery.
"I find that it's best to travel to London and Paris and check out what people are wearing," she explains. "That's when you really see things."
In contrast to Iron Clay, earthy hues are planned for ARTipelago's coming season, with citrine, green amethyst and smoky quartz all on the agenda. But the major change for Luke's range is the introduction of gold.
"I used to think gold plating was tacky, but my customers in France are asking for it and I'm beginning to really like working with it. I try not to be too interested in trends, but this is a great example of being directed by fashion."
Luke isn't the only person going for gold - the precious metal has been experiencing a renaissance of late. A quick flick through celebrity magazines reveals mountains of the stuff, worn around the neck as medallions or across the wrist in charms of skulls, horses and more whimsical objects.
For fashion-savvy wearers who once favoured silver as their adornment of choice, gold is the new black. The revival has filtered down to the fashion market because designers are working the precious metal into pieces that are chiefly semi-precious.
A gold-plated bead might feature in a garnet necklace, for example, or in a silver bracelet with glass beads.
"There's a definite trend to be seen wearing something a little more precious and glamourous," says Pandora Jewelry representative Jeff Burnes. "Gold is an affordable option for the young market when it's combined with semi-precious materials."
Pandora Jewelry has adopted 14-carat gold as the centrepiece for its newest range of Venetian glass beads. The beads, which fit onto bracelets to create contemporary versions of the classic charm bracelet, have proven to be huge sellers in Europe and the US over autumn/winter.
"The fashion industry has picked up on gold as a good highlight colour over there," Burnes explains. "The most popular designer handbag right now has gold trimmings, for example."
It seems designer accessories of all kinds are more in vogue than ever. While branded jewellery is another trend relatively new to Australian shores, and it's no surprise that Fossil Australia is leading the charge, given the success the group has experienced with its branded watch products already.
"Branded jewellery is still in its infancy stage in Australia," says Annemiek Ballesty, Fossil Australia, "but people are crazy for it in Europe, and we can expect much of the same here."
Distributing Emporio Armani, Breil, D&G, Diesel and Fossil to jewellery retailers, department stores and brand boutiques, Fossil's design teams works closely to develop fashion jewellery lines that complement the clothing trends for the season.
Interestingly, Fossil releases product in line with the northern hemisphere, and is now launching its spring/summer collections while others launch autumn/winter. It's a strategy, according to Ballesty, that ensures Fossil collections are as new as possible.
"Sometimes it clashes with the Australian seasons," Ballesty says, "but it's better to be ahead of the trends."
Across the board, adventurous blends and inventive materials are en vogue, such as the use of stainless steel and IP plating with pearls and semi-precious gemstones (Breil) and dog tags fashioned from leather and sterling silver, flecks of turquoise, reconstituted red coral and mother of pearl (Diesel).
Not everyone chooses to follow seasonal fashion cycles when creating, stocking or buying fashion jewellery, however: "I'm a little left of centre when it comes to trends," says Hala Francka, director, Hala Francka Jewellery. "I don't even think to place jewellery into seasonal terms. I just let the pieces speak to me and choose what I like."
Francka visits Poland once a year to purchase amber jewellery and other unusual fashion pieces from small design businesses. The "wearable art" is exported to jewellers and design galleries across Australia and New Zealand, including Francka's own NSW gallery.
Although her buying process is largely an intuitive one, she has noticed one trend developing within her own gallery: "Women are going for statement jewellery," Francka says. "Feminine is being embraced yet again, not in the itsy-bitsy floral sense, but with flowing lines, circles and curves.
"The handcrafted, semi-precious market is definitely on the rise. It was once in a weird place because it's more expensive than costume jewellery but it's not fine jewellery either. But people are more educated now. They are really interested in what the stones are, for example, they are really searching for these pieces and they are happy to pay a bit more."
Elegance, depth of colour, golden touches, branded jewellery, inventive materials and organic shapes: it seems everybody has a different take on the style to replace tired ol' boho.
What is known is that the eclectic, ethnic influences that have dominated fashion clothing shelves for years now are making way for items that show more structure and more layering. Tailored suits, balloon sleeves, short dresses paired with skinny leggings and big collars - volume and modishness will soon be as important as embellishment has been. Accompanying all will be a new, more mature kind of fashion jewellery. |
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Friday night at Summit |
| cdr vii
It’s that time of year again, when grilling meat, arm wrestling, and indie rock somehow end up together in awkward sentences (like this one). This weekend is the seventh annual Columbus Discount Records BBQ, where the local label shares the wealth and gives you a wealth of local/international talent to gaze upon for as free as possible. This year’s version of the tradition entails two star-studded rock shows (Friday night at The Summit and Saturday night at Carabar) as well as a multi-faceted get-together Saturday afternoon at CDR HQ (corner of Oak and Parsons, just up the street from Carabar). Highlights:
Friday night at Summit: Sets from local Uggs-rock veterans the Guinea Worms and the most-successful, longest-lasting Rock Potluck band ever, Sandwitch (featuring Ron House), are those most likely to slay. Omaha’s Yuppies will play the part of the noisy visitors from out of town, and the night will be rounded out by intergalactic party Mormons Outer Spacist and the sheer spectacle of the Unholy Two. You will probably leave this show wearing beer.
Saturday afternoon BBQ: Obviously, free PBR and grilled eats would be a highlight of any day. However,Ugg Boots Deutschland this party also includes your chance for eternal glory with an arm-wrestling tournament! The male and female brackets are both sure to be tough, but you still have a couple days to train. If all of this is not enough, local legends the Cheater Slicks will play a set in the CDR studio around 5:30.
Saturday night at Carabar: This is where the big guns come out, so hopefully you are not drunk enough or drunk enough to enjoy it. Local wonders (and musical inspirations to Beck) Times New Viking will headline and close the festivities. I am excited for another visit from the prolific globetrotter Dan Melchior, who will surely entertain with whoever might be backing him up, and a set from Harrisburg, Ohio’s favorite sons, Mike Rep and Tommy Jay, will lend some tuneful and grizzled character to the proceedings.
More information, conspiracy theories, and conjecture here. |
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LEIGH AND HARLOW |
| FASHION AND BEAUTY
ANDY THE-ANH
The-Anh’s spring-summer collection is now up to 70 per cent off. 27 Bellair St., 416-922-9553; Bayview Village, 2901 Bayview Ave., 416-590-0167.
AUGUSTINA
Summer shoes, clothing and handbags are now 30 per cent off. 138 Cumberland St., 416-922-4248, augustinaboutiques.com.
BERGSTROM ORIGINALS
The women’s boutique is starting its summertime sale this Friday with all clothing marked down by up to 50 per cent. Shoes are 30 per cent off. Starting Aug. 6. 781 Queen St. E., 416-595-7320, bergstromoriginals.com.
CANOPY BLUE
The midtown by way of L.A. womenswear store is making way for its fall merchandise by marking down summer clothing by 40 to 75 per cent. 2582 Yonge St., 416-483-2583, canopyblue.ca.
EWANIKA
Trish Ewanika’s gorgeous separates and dresses from her spring-summer collection—great options for non-fusty office clothes—are now between 40 and 50 per cent off. 1083 Bathurst St., 416-927-9699, ewanika.ca.
ELEVEN
Spring and summer collections from such Canadian designers as Lucian Matis, Pink Tartan and Joeffer Caoc are now between 40 and 50 per cent off. Accessories are up to 70 per cent off. 116 Cumberland St., 416-966-3935, shop-eleven.ca.
GEORGE C.
Summer clothing and accessories at this designer boutique are now 70 per cent off. 21 Hazelton Ave., 416-962-1991, georgec.ca.
HEEL BOY
The footwear store is offering half-off Uggs (a rare event) and its spring and summer styles. 773 Queen St. W., 416-362-4335.
HOLT RENFREW
There’s still plenty of summer sale merchandise left at Holts, and now it’s marked down by up to 70 per cent off the original price. 50 Bloor St. W., 416-960-2909, holtrenfrew.com, plus two other GTA locations.
KORRY’S
The Danforth men’s suiting store is offering up to 60 per cent off clothing from Hugo Boss, Zegna Sport, Cole Haan, Canali and more. 569 Danforth Ave., 416-463-1880, korrys.com.
LEIGH AND HARLOW
The store has further reduced clothing, denim and shoes at its designer sale—the items are now up to 50 per cent off. 634 Queen St. W., 647-430-7728, leighandharlow.com.
OVER THE RAINBOW
Jeans (Citizens, Sevens, Earnest Sewns, etc.) and clothing from the summer collection are now 70 per cent off. 101 Yorkville Ave., 416-967-7448, rainbowjeans.com.
PHILIP SPARKS
Suits, shirts and shoes are half off on the Toronto menswear designer’s on-line store. Until Aug. 10. philipsparks.com/shop.
RAD
Dundas West’s luxury avant-garde designer clothing and accessories shop is offering 50 per cent off all clothing and some accessories. 899 Dundas St. W., 416-231-0266, researchanddevelopment.ca.
SYDNEY’S
The designer menswear store was damaged in a fire back in May and is ready to open at a new location this weekend. To celebrate,Ugg Boots Deutschland merchandise is up to 80 per cent off. 682 Queen St. W., 416-603-3369, shopsydneys.com.
VIRGINIA JOHNSON
The spring collection (tunics, scarves and totes) is half-off and wool shawls are 30 per cent off. 132 Ossington Ave., 416-516-3366, virginiajohnson.com.
WHITE
The city’s premier bridal store also stocks a great collection of dresses for bridesmaids (many make nice cocktail frocks, too). These dresses—lines include Lela Rose, Jenny Yoo and Nicole Miller—are now all 10 per cent off. Appointment required. Until Aug. 31. 19 Hazelton Ave., 416-849-9196, whitetoronto.com.
HOME
AU LIT FINE LINENS
The annual White Sale is back with up to 50 per cent off bedroom linens at Au Lit (2049 Yonge St.) and LIV (418 Eglinton Ave. W.). Until Aug. 31. 416-489-7010, aulitfinelinens.com.
AVENUE ROAD
Decor nuts who haven’t visited Avenue Road’s new location should take the opportunity to do so during the store’s outdoor sale, which includes 30 per cent off all patio furniture and planters. Until Sept. 11. 415 Eastern Ave., 416-548-7788, avenue-road.com.
ELTE
All sale items at Elte are on final markdown—that’s 30 to 60 per cent off furniture, rugs and accessories. 80 Ronald Ave., 416-785-7885, elte.com.
SHERWAY GARDENS ANTIQUES SHOW
For the past 39 years, Sherway Gardens has been hosting a summertime antiques sale—the largest in the city, with more than one kilometre of furniture, housewares and knickknacks. Until Aug. 8. 25 The West Mall, 416-621-1070, sherwaygardens.ca.
STYLEGARAGE
Save 20 per cent on Toronto-made Gus* Modern upholstered furniture from the Essentials collection. Until Aug. 15. 938 Queen St. W., 416-534-4343, stylegarage.com.
WILLIAMS-SONOMA
An important announcement for wedding guests still searching for a gift: 75 per cent off at Williams-Sonoma. 100 Bloor St. W., 416-962-9455, williams-sonoma.com. |
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The versatile UGG Classic Cardy |
| AUSTRALIA: Chic Ways to Wear UGG Classic Cardy Boots
Don't be too hasty as you pack things up, though--some styles can carry you beautifully from season to season. Take the Classic Cardy Boots from UGG Australia, for instance. These comfy, easygoing boots are knit from a soft, breathable wool blend for year-round wear. Lightweight, grooved outsoles keep you steady on sunny beaches or icy streets, and cushiony sheepskin sockliners offer comfort,Cheap Tiffanywinter through summer.
The versatile UGG Classic Cardy has three wooden buttons down the side, and you can wear it many different ways, with all sorts of different clothing. In addition to the original earthy Oatmeal, Black and Grey colors, you can also find the Cardy in this season's freshest new colors for spring: Cream, Sorbet and Pool.
Below, you'll find just a few suggestions on how to transition your UGG Classic Cardys from winter through spring and summer:
1) Lighten Up
Has your winter been cold and snowy? If so, you've probably been pairing your Cardys with thick wool socks and your heaviest jeans and corduroys. Now's the time to shed a few layers!
As weather allows, Tiffany
try a miniskirt--either with ribbed-knit tights or, if you're lucky enough to live somewhere warm, bare legs beneath. Skinny jeans and capris are also a terrific option, paired with lighter sweaters or T-shirts and woolen vests. When the warmer weather finally sets in, you can pair your Cardy Boots with flouncy silk and cotton skirts and even shorts (long or short-short). Nothing feels better than soft, natural sheepskin on the soles of your feet.
2) Layer Up
The Classic Cardy was made for layering. Its unique 3-button design allows you to wear it several different ways: with the uppers stretched up to full height and buttoned; with the uppers slouched and slightly unbuttoned; or with the cuffs rolled all the way down.
Aside from that, you'll probably want to experiment with layers as the seasons move from winter to spring, and from spring to summer. If you're wearing boot-cut jeans, for instance, you can start the day out with your jeans rolled down; as the day heats up, cuff your jeans up above your Cardys and slouch the boot uppers down.
If you're wearing skinny leggings, start the day out with your Cardys buttoned all the way up, and your leggings tucked in. As they day gets warmer, cuff your boots down for more airflow. Follow this general rule of thumb, and experiment with lots of different layers for your legs and feet--from socks, tights and legwarmers to leggings, jeans, Capri pants and more.
3) Mix it Up
Above all else, have fun! The UGG Classic Cardy seems to have made an appearance just about everywhere, from haute fashion runways to busy city streets and sandy beaches. I've seen these boots paired with everything from casual, layered urban wear to bikinis (don't forget--the Cardy has its origins in the surf-inspired UGG Australia Classic Boots!). |
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Dave Elizai Stirling |
| Man denies stealing £250,000 worth of jewellery from Kingston's millionaires' row
A man has denied carrying out a string of burglaries from millionaires’ mansions in the most exclusive part of Kingston allegedly netting nearly £250,000 of jewellery.
One of the necklaces he is accused of stealing is worth £185,000.
Dave Elizai Stirling, 44, appeared at Kingston Crown Court via a video link from Wandsworth Prison on Monday, August 9, to face charges of breaking into mansions around Coombe Hill Golf Club.
Mr Stirling denied seven counts of burglary,Cheap Tiffany six counts of converting criminal property and an attempted burglary between January and May 2010.
He is accused of a stealing spree that included a white gold and diamond necklace worth £185,000 engraved with flowers from a home in Warren Road on January 9.
Prosecutors say two months later, on March 20, he returned to Coombe Hill to steal more jewellery including a gold and diamond ring worth £22,000 from a house in Edgecoombe Close.
During the same break-in, he is accused of stealing watches, car keys and two mobile phones.
Mr Stirling is accused of stealing a magnifying glass, a purse and £10,000 of jewellery during a raid on Tudor Cottage, Coombe Hill Road, on April 26.
One month after that, on May 5, prosecutors say he broke into the Principal, Cedar Court, Coombe Hill Road, stole a gold Tiffany’s charm bracelet worth £7,000 and took a large quantity of jewellery and a purse, worth £10,000.
Three days later, on May 9, he is alleged to have carried out an attempted burglary at Abbotswood,Tiffany Coombe Hill Road, Kingston, involving a Sony camera T7000 worth £200 and a portable safe.
Judge Nicholas Price refused a bail application on behalf of Mr Stirling, of Pitcairn Road, Mitcham, and set a trial date at Kingston Crown Court for Monday, October 18.
Burglaries have been on the rise in Coombe Hill in recent years as the recession has taken its toll.
Rich residents – including former tennis star Annabel Croft and comedian Jimmy Tarbuck – were reported to have been on their guard last January after a spate of “key fishing”, where criminals hooked car and house keys left too close to letterboxes. |
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The chaos of that afternoon was |
| It was hardly the most seamless of starts.
No sooner had I signed the contract for my new job as a presenter on GMTV than I found myself trapped in a rickety old lift on the way down from my agent’s fourth- floor office.
Half-an-hour and a team of bemused firemen later, I finally escaped, cheap ugg bootsfeeling as flustered as no doubt I looked.
The chaos of that afternoon was, however, perhaps indicative of the frenzied direction my life was about to take. A fortnight later it was my first day at GMTV and I was welcoming Lady Gaga on to the show.
She was dressed in her trademark black knickers, sunglasses (a staple accessory for celebrities who frequent the programme, even though at 7am in London there’s rarely any need for them), cheap ugg cardy bootsand precious little else, and I was petrified.
I was a former business presenter on Sky News, so she was by far the most famous celebrity I’d ever had the fortune to interview. But although eccentric and undoubtedly talented, she was reassuringly human.
When the cameras went off, she even had the good grace to compliment me on my purple eye shadow. It was as if I’d entered a parallel universe.
Since that morning, I’ve interviewed everyone from politicians to rock stars and Hollywood A-listers. I have reported from a lion’s den in South Africa and followed Prince William around Australia on his Royal tour of duty.
I’ve met some of the most inspirational men and women in Britain and made friends that I hope to keep for life. Presenting on GMTV has been a privilege and an absolute thrill.
But after 18 months on the job,it is all coming to an end. GMTV is changing its name to Daybreak, and from September the show will be presented by Adrian Chiles and Christine Bleakley. I have no doubt the new format will do brilliantly – I’m a big fan of the One Show and they make a great partnership.
Of course I am sad to be leaving, but no matter what the future holds, I will always remember the wonderful time I’ve had working there.
I wanted a career in broadcast journalism ever since I did an internship at ITN as part of my drama, theatre, film and television degree at Leeds University. I loved the buzz, the excitement, the sheer unpredictability of it.
After a stint at rolling-news channel BBC News 24, I became a reporter for CNBC in Europe and America, before joining the Sunrise team at Sky in 2003.
In my final year, when the credit crunch hit, I transferred to their business desk, which was an amazing opportunity – but as far removed from the popular mainstream appeal of GMTV as it is possible to imagine.
I could scarcely believe it when I got the call from GMTV editor Martin Frizzell in January 2009. Fiona Phillips was leaving after 12 years and I was in the running to replace her.
The show seemed far too steeped in showbusiness and glamour for the likes of me; an ordinary, almost shy girl with a loving but very normal upbringing in Newbury, Berkshire. |
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